Feature
The bakery that opens at four
Eleven years, one oven, and a neighborhood that sets its alarm by the smell of bread.
Bread doesn't care what time it is. It's ready when it's ready.
The baker, on why the doors open so early
A morning in numbers
4:00doors open
312loaves before nine
11years, same oven
A day in three acts
Dough, dawn, and the long afternoon
- Midnight: the dough comes out of the cold
- Four a.m.: the first trays go into the window
- Afternoon: tomorrow's dough is mixed and put to rest
Saturdays sell out twice
The bakery's own tally, one week in September
Set your alarm
The first tray is the best tray.